23rd September 2014      9-15℃      0km by bike
Veliko Tarnovo

I woke to find it bucketing down rain, which didn’t really stop all day.  I spent the early morning exploring the castle Tsarevets, after which I was completely soaked.  It was still pouring, so I decided to wait it out for the day, in a cafe that had awesome internet. I downloaded 4GB of maps for Europe in the time I ate lunch.

22nd September 2014       15-29℃      169km
Idilevo – Veliko Tarnovo

After saying goodbye to the guys at Bulgaria Motocamp, I headed out on the winding mountain roads to Buzludzha.  Built on the top of a mountain peak by the Soviets during Bulgarian communism, the spaceship looking structure opened in 1981, and was promptly abandoned soon after, in the fall of communism.    Now unmaintained, it has been locked up for safety and to prevent vandalism, although there is a small access hole in one side of the building and I was able to climb inside to explore.   It is amazing to walk through this abandoned building, mosaics of Marx, Engels & Lenin lining the walls.  The ceiling has began to fall in, bringing with it the environment, snow in winter, rain in summer, slowly destroying what is left of the building. Concrete, carpet and paint rotting away, stalactites forming from the stairs as materials drip down through the floors.

Leaving Buzludzha, I rode on to Veliko Tarnovo and the city festival which had closed all the roads, forcing me to cut loops for 30 minutes trying to find my way into the centre, where I eventually located a great hotel with a rooftop view of the castle and settled in for the show, celebrating the city.

21st September 2014          15-22’C        202km
Sofia – Idilevo

Heading out of Sofia, I thought I would ride past the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral again, just to get a photo from the other side of the building.   On approach I noticed that the road had been blocked off by Police, but one or two cars had been sneaking through, and I tried the same.   Of course, I was pulled over.

The cop made me stop, told me off and that I shouldn’t ride around the sign in the middle of the road (at least that’s what I thought he was saying) but then another car drove through.  He pulled that car over also, and I watched what happened.  The lady driving smiled at him, batted her eyelids and generally played up to him.  Of course, he let her go.   When I came back to me, I asked him “Why do you want to give me a ticket, but you let her go?”   He said “She Big Boss!”  and gestured to indicate ‘large breasts’   I laughed and said, “well then you have to let me go then”   He was insistent, I was getting a ticket.

Fortunately another cop appeared who spoke excellent English, and asked me where I was from.  When I told him, he asked incredulously, “And you rode this bike here?!!”   When I explained, yes, and showed them the flags they both became very animated, and asked me if they could take my photo.   Of course, I obliged.   After giving me very clear directions on how to exit the city, we waved goodbye and I was sent on my way with warm wishes for a safe journey, and no infringement ticket.  I also got my photo.

I made good time and arrived in the afternoon at Motocamp Bulgaria, where they had a spotless room for me, wifi, and cold beer in the fridge.  An absolutely top spot in Bulgaria, they made me right at home in the small village of Idilevo and I settled in for an easy evening of updating blog, scanning maps and planning routes.