29th September 2014       5-26℃        358km
Sarajevo – Mostar – Trogir (Croatia)

I set out from Sarajevo early, in the cool mist air, riding past the many bullet holed buildings, including the Holiday Inn, which looked to be in very rough shape.
I reached Mostar just before lunch, and enjoyed walking around the old town, although it was fairly busy with tourists and crappy souvenir shops, the great cobbled streets, stone bridge and towers were exceptionally impressive.

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After a quick lunch, I rode along the river to reach the border between Bosnia & Croatia.   On the Bosnian side, my passport was scanned and checked, then I proceeded to the Croatian side, where I handed my passport to the girl, she just said “Ok” and handed it back to me, without even opening it.   I wasn’t sure if we had some misunderstanding, so I asked “its ok? Can I go?”.   To which she said, somewhat impatiently “Ok! Go, go”

Fair enough, I thought, and powered up and into Croatia.  I wanted to cover some extra kilometres before it was dark, so I headed onto the freeway, a brilliant piece of engineering, smooth, fast and wide.  And cruised like this for 2hrs, turning off near Trogir where the road winds down to the Adriatic Sea.  I looked for a room to rent, but the first two places I checked didn’t have anyone near to ask availability.  The third one, was a really nice room, but right next to a busy road, and the price seemed way too high.
I had spotted a campsite about 2km back along the road, right beside the sea, and turned back there to investigate.  It looked to be a great spot, right beside the sea, and with Wi-Fi coverage in the tent, basically making it lux.
I setup my tent, and walked down along the sea to the first seafood restaurant I saw, ordered a beer and a plate of grilled scampi.  Fresh, grilled scampi is for me the quintessential Croatian dish.  They just do them so well here, fresh, lightly grilled and a tiny touch of lemon and olive oil.   Just brilliant.

Now that the sun has gone down, it has become cool, that transition period in autumn, between summer and winter when the days can still be hot, but the nights cold.   I’ll be wrapped up in the tent tonight.

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28th September 2014         11-19℃         294km
Novi Sad – Sarajevo (Bosnia & Herzegovina)

I made my way along the winding road to the Serbian border on the Drina river. Exiting Serbia was a simple passport check whole sitting on the bike, and I was free to ride across the bridge to the Bosnian side.

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It was there that my passport & bike papers were checked, and I was advised I needed a green card insurance, which I’d need to go and buy. The officer told me to park the bike and walk approximately 500M outside the border zone, where I should find a shop selling insurance.
This was a little strange, as I was now inside the country, but with no passport. I guess they figured I was coming back for the bike.
I hunted around for these ‘shops’ described, but everything was closed. I gave up and returned to the border police.
After telling them that all the shops were closed, the four guys debated what to do. It seemed it was a real problem, they couldn’t let me go without insurance. After confirming with a more senior guy in the office, who came out to see what the problem was, it was agreed. The only solution was to return to Serbia, and come back tomorrow, when the offices were open and could sell the necessary insurance.

One of the guys made a smart observation, that I didn’t even have insurance for Serbia…. So if they sent me back there, and they didn’t let me in for the same reason, then I’d be stuck between the two borders.
Everything was friendly enough, they just didn’t know how they could let me in without insurance.

I suggested “what if you just let me go, and I’ll be extra careful?”. I could see them considering this option, but it was overruled by one of the guys. I think he was concerned of the repercussions if something happened and they tracked it back.
After about half an hour of chatting and joking, one of the guys suggested…. “why don’t you go, and be extra careful, but you need to be out of Bosnia within 2 days. Otherwise you stop in Sarajevo and buy insurance there”. Bingo! This is what I wanted them to agree to. I thanked them profusely, said goodbye and collected my now stamped passport. I was free to go.

I rode on and into Sarajevo.

Sarajevo is an awesome city, with great pedestrian streets, a brilliant vibe and friendly people.  It is amazing how vibrant a city with such a tumultuous past.

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27th September 2014       11-19℃          184km
Vršac – Novi Sad

A short ride, as I was tired early today and the fine city of Novi Sad tempted a longer stay. I explored the castle before walking the city and the bars in the evening. A cool place, plenty of drinking places and good fun vibe.

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