Isfahan – Abyaneh – Kashan

25th August 2014      40’C       265km
Isfahan – Abyaneh – Kashan

Leaving Isfahan, I stopped at a bookshop and bought a road map of Iran. Prior to reaching Iran, I’d had paper maps to reference, all through the Stans & Mongolia. While the GPS is great, there is nothing like a paper map to be able to orientate oneself and plan.

I headed up to the mud brick village of Abyaneh, where I wandered around for an hour, then had lunch. The usual huge plate of rice, beef mince kebab and a roasted tomato. I’ve eaten this exact meal, so many times in Iran. Often it’s the only thing on offer, besides a greasy hamburger & fries.

Riding up the mountain, of course I now started to feel sleepy, and needed to stop for a rest. The problem was, I was right next to the Iranian uranium enrichment plant, which is surrounded by anti-aircraft guns, and signs seriously stating “No photo!”. It’s a sensitive site, due to the way the US views Iran’s nuclear program. I found an abandoned building that offered some shade, and parked behind it, reclining on the bike for a sleep. I’d barely closed my eyes, when a guy came and tapped me on the shoulder, saying “No photo!!!”. I’m not sure what he thought I was doing, but I’m pretty sure sleeping doesn’t look like taking a photo. He seemed serious, and I tried to show him, I just needed some sleep.

He eventually agreed, but sat down a few metres away and watched me. I woke up 30 minutes later, and he was still there, but he seemed happier now. Maybe he now understood that I only wanted to sleep. I said goodbye and rode on, reaching Kashan in the late afternoon.

I located a fantastic old historic house, made of mud brick and converted into a guest house. The owner offering the roof as a secure parking space for the bike. He showed me how to ride up the lanes to get up onto the roof, where I could look down onto the lovely garden courtyard, where I relaxed and ate dinner in the cool night air.