Vientiane – Vang Vieng – Phonsavan

21st April 2014.    23’C – 36’C.   414km

Leaving Vientiane early, the plan was to avoid any traffic and get some distance before the day heated up. Neither was achievable.
I rolled down the stairs of the hotel and out onto Vientiane streets before 8am, but it seems Vientiane residents were already way ahead of me. The traffic was abysmal, and the road to match. Cars, tuk tuks, trucks and buses all stirring up plumes of dust, choking me. The traffic moved so slowly, probably a good thing as some of the road ‘rules’ I still don’t comprehend. Like the strange but often observed, motorcycles turning at an intersection, will come around the corner and then drive on the wrong side of the road until a gap, then dart across the traffic to the correct side.

For over an hour, I never got beyond 1st or 2nd gear, it was stop-start driving with thick dust, requiring constant intense concentration to avoid being wiped out by a bus, truck or a tuk tuk.
On reaching the outskirts, the traffic lightened, but I was so exhausted from concentrating so hard I was now falling asleep. I spotted an outdoor restaurant by the side of the road and pulled in. They had these fantastic little sheltered platforms for guests, and I was the only guest at this hour. Three of the staff came to attend to me, and I explained I just needed a nap. One of the staff brought me a cold drink, the next setting up a pillow and a mat for me to lay on, and the third setting up a fan to cool me. The chef came out and said “no problem, you just sleep now and when you wake up, then you ride”.

Magnificent hospitality.

I napped under the fan for 40 minutes and woke refreshed and ready to go.

Riding into Vang Vieng was amazing. The view of the mountains lifting out of the river was really a sight to behold. Although the town is overrun by deadlocked Aussie backpackers looking for a good time. Shame. It’s a paradise location. I considered staying the night, but pushed on as it wasn’t really my scene.

The road climbed up into the mountains, offering amazing views into the distance, and smoke haze. 240km of tight winding road, the scenery was a beautiful but dangerous distraction from the road. Gazing out at the vista for too long, and missing a corner wouldn’t be good, so I stopped regularly to take in the view and take away some photos. There was very little traffic.

Passing through Hmong villages, with people collecting water from the community well in buckets. Bathing in the street. The kids waving and smiling. This was the Laos I’d hoped to see. In my observation, the southern Lao people are quite different to the north. While people are still a little reserved in the north, they are certainly friendlier. Happy, smiling and welcoming.

It started to rain and I stopped under a small shelter to put on rain gear, much to the amusement of the villagers.

I’d pushed too far today, it was now almost 5pm and I was still 40km from Phonsavan, and needing to find somewhere to stay. I spotted a sign pointing to a jars quarry, and couldn’t help myself, so turned down a dirt road to explore. Hoping that it wouldn’t be too dark when I reached town.

I made it into the town just as dusk fell, finding a guesthouse and crashing out after 11 hours riding. A very long day.

I promised myself that I would not do this again, riding until dusk.   If I had the misfortune to get another flat tyre or some other problem, I’d be out in the dark trying to sort it out.   Better planning is required.