Ulaanbaatar – Karakorum

22nd June 2014          14-27’C         360km
Ulaanbaatar – Karakorum

I left the Amarbayasgalant Hotel early this morning, after 11 nights, the longest time I’ve stayed in a single place for months.  I was looking forward to getting back on the road, especially solo, but it wasn’t to be. Mick and I had agreed that we’d ride separately and meet up later in a few weeks at the border to Russia.  Different agendas, different timing and differing accommodation requirements (I prefer to camp when possible, especially if the scenary begs for camping) made this the best solution.

I rode out of Ulaanbaatar and eventually the traffic thinned and the road opened up, revealing the beauty of Mongolia.  Passing through grassy fields where cattle, horses, goats and camels all roamed, along with the occasional mouse that would scurry across the road.  Some sections of the road were in terrible condition and I often just rode on the grass and dirt beside the road, which was usually smoother and more comfortable.

At around 10:30am, very dark clouds appeared on the horizon and soon I could see the rain in the distance. I stopped to put on the wet weather gear, and had just finished putting everything on when the first drops of rain hit, followed by a solid downpour.  Fortunately I stayed dry, but as the temperature dropped I was getting cold, so pulled into the shelter of a fuel station to put a fleece on underneath.  I was getting changed when three Koreans appeared from their minivan toilet stop, they came over and said hello and photos were taken.  I even got a nice warm hug from one of the older ladies, which helped restore some body warmth.
Back on the bike the rain soon stopped and once my gear had dried out, I stopped for some lunch at a roadside shack where the proprietor was waving at me.  The menu was only in Mongolian, and I tried to identify any dish that I’d eaten previously, but without success, I decided to play ‘lunchtime roulette’ and pointed at an item on the menu, priced at 5000 tugrik.  The owner went out the back to the kitchen and soon a large steaming hot bowl of soup appeared at my table, heavily laden with big chunks of beef, potatoes, carrots and meat dumplings. What a win!  Just what I needed to warm me up and it was delicious.  Along with the soup, I was served a small bowl of airag, warm fermented mare’s milk, complete with curd on top. I tentatively tasted it, and it was surprisingly good and I finished the bowl.

Setting off again as the sun was starting to break through the clouds, I stopped to take a photo, and Mick stopped not far behind me.

I stopped again later at an ovoo to take some more photos and then rode on  towards Erdene Zuu Khiid, the 16th century monestary on the outskirts of Karakorum.  The monestary was the first Buddhist monestary in Mongolia and at its peak housed over 1000 monks.  Karakorum was the capital of the Mongol empire in the 13th century, under Chinggis Khan, and until the collapse of the Mongol empire.  The city was abandoned and destroyed in 1388.  The monestary is located on a beautiful plateau, surrounded by low, green hills.  Monks going about their duties in the grounds.

The very basic hotel I’m staying in tonight has a small tank of water above the ‘shower’ that is filled up and then heated by an electric element. A very quick shower was had before dinner in the large family ger.  Tonight another thunderstorm is passing over, dumping rain and making the trails slippery for tomorrow.