Terkhiin Tsgaan – Mörön

24th June 2014     8-24’C       269km
Terkhiin Tsgaan – Mörön

As usual I woke early for sunrise, although the first task of the morning was to relight the fire in my ger, as it had burnt out overnight and I was fast asleep and hence didn’t restoke it when I probably should have at 3am. So I quickly started the fire and jumped back into bed until the ger warmed up sufficiently to get dressed.

Once packed and back on the bike, I headed out to the west, following the lake shore for about 20km and stopping regularly for more photos as the road deteriorated, but never got too difficult.  There was one mountain pass that was covered in baby-head rocks and ensured that I was fully warmed up!

The lake flows out into marshland and it wasn’t too long before I hit the first soft bog and subsequent river crossing, these rivers became even more numerous as the day went on.  Usually my technique was to approach the water following the tracks of previous 4WDs, although sometimes they had taken deeper paths, so I would often need to get off the bike and walk through, planning a line through each river.  I came to one deep crossing and watched a truck proceed before me, and was thinking it might be on my the limit for depth.  I stopped to take a closer look and the people in the truck all got out and waited to see what would happen when I tried to cross.  I decided to turn around so I could approach it from a different angle, and as I was turning, I noticed a small wooden bridge about 500M further up the river.  Built from 5 logs strapped together, it was perfect for motorbikes, so I took that easier and safer option.    About 20 minutes later I came across a section of ground that was frozen, along with a big piece of ice.  Riding across it wasn’t too bad, as rocks had been pressed into the ice surface.

Passing through pine forest I came to a beautiful flat area with grazing cattle, and as I was riding past a ger, the family waved at me, gesturing that I should come over.  I rode up to their camp and offered the men a cigarette.  I don’t smoke, but I’m buying a pack of cigarettes every two days, as I’ve found that offering them is a great way to break the ice with Mongolians, and they immediately warm up.  After everyone had a smoke, I was invited into the ger for a warm bowl of fermented airag (mares milk) and some home baked bread with fresh butter.  A nice morning snack.  The men were all interested in my riding boots and wanted to swap my boots for their Mongolian boots, but I had to decline their generous offer.  It was time for me to move on, so I gave the three kids some colour pencils and paper, which they were very happy to receive.  As I was about to leave, one of the guys noticed that I had lost the cap from my fuel bottle, it must have shaken loose in the last few kilometres of bumpy roads.   I poured the remaining fuel into the head guys motorbike, and saying goodbye to the family I turned back and tried to retrace my path for a few km, hoping to spot the red cap in the grass, but there were so many tracks and I couldn’t remember which one I had taken, so the cap is lost to the Mongolian steppe.

The road turned into a bone shaking ride, probably the first time I have ever felt my fillings being shaken out.  The path was crazy big rocks and corrugated roads.   When I set out in the morning, the manager of the ger camp told me that this road was a “good road” and all I could think was if she thinks this is a good road, I don’t even want to imagine what her idea of  a bad road is!   I’d been riding for almost 11hrs, only covering 260km, and pretty much standing up for the whole day.  Tired, I approached Moron town, just as it started to rain, turning the road into a muddy slippery mess and covering me in mud.

But I found a cheap and good hotel, with food and a cold shower I felt refreshed.  It was an amazing day, so many beautiful sights. Mongolia never ceases to amaze, everyday is something new!