Murghab – Khorog
3rd August 2014 8-29’C 316km
Murghab – Khorog
Riding out from Murghab, the landscape was almost lunar desert. The high rocky peaks capped with snow. Bare rocks at high altitude, then occasional blue lakes rimmed by green grass. It was an amazing sight.
I stopped at a checkpoint in the middle of nowhere, and my passport, visa and GBAO permit details were recorded in a large notebook, before I proceeded on over the rocky trail.
One of the most outstanding things about Tajikistan is that everyone waves and smiles, especially in the Pamirs.
Sometimes I didn’t even see the person waving at me, they were so far away, they would start waving before I was even close! Everyone waves. Children, babies, young adults, couples, old people so frail it appears they could barely lift an arm! but still they wave. People working in the fields, stop their work and wave, builders drop their tools and wave. It is really amazing, and very welcoming.
Today’s ride on the Pamir Highway was the pinnacle of riding the Pamirs. Smashing views all day, and mostly good off-road riding.
What’s with all the checkpoints?
The area is a bit contentious. It borders Afghanistan for a start, then there are also some local tribal conflicts, so the authorities like to know who is coming and going in the area. Visiting the area required a special permit, that I applied for at the same time as my visa.