Kosh-Agach – Ust-Sema

8th July 2014       11-25’C     422km
Kosh-Agach – Ust Sema

Riding out of Kosh-Agach, I was soon in the magnificent countryside.  It snowed on the peaks last night, which further enhanced the beauty of the mountains. The roads now in Russia are fantastic, smooth tarmac, a complete change from the last 3000km in Mongolia.  It is fascinating that the border between Mongolia and Russia also marks a significant change in the landscape. Down this side of the mountain pass, the scenery is classically Russian.  Alpine mountains, pine forests, flower filled meadows and huge swift rivers fill the view in all directions.  The people and culture, distinctly Russian, I now feel very close to Europe.  The culture is far more familiar to me and of course appear similar in appearance to the locals here, and with that comes the assumption that I speak Russian.

Regularly stopping for photos, I was always greeted very warmly by Russians who had also stopped. Lots of handshakes and photos, and “welcome to Russia!”
In stark contrast to Mongolia, while Russians are just as interested in the bike, they never dare touch it, but maintain a respectful distance, even when I’m not around.  In Mongolia people would be climbing all over the bike, stomping on the brakes, twisting the throttle. Very different culture.

I paused at a roadside food stall and ate an awesome boar shashlik with bread as my dinner, as I had planned to camp, but when I reached the small town of Ust-Sema, I saw a small collection of shacks that looked like they would be for rent.  I stopped in and the lady there showed me the shack with a bed, and the shared kitchen, shower and toilet.  It was all spotless and set in her garden, for only 500 rubles. ($18)

I dumped my gear in the cabin, and discovered that my small bottle of Detol had split, covering my clothes in antiseptic.  Some of them were long overdue for washing, and now all have been disinfected, but I smell like a hospital. I walked up to the shop to buy some water and a beer.

When I got back, Alexander, the man of the property, had appeared and was very impressed with my ride from Singapore.
There was a group of two couples that had also just arrived, they had started a bbq and I was invited to join them.
They had a huge spread of food, and I contributed my measly beer and cucumbers to the table.  We took a few photos, me in their Lada, and the fellas on the bike.  They all universally agreed that the Lada, was crap.

I was made very welcome, and my plate loaded with food. It wasn’t long until a bottle of vodka appeared and shots poured.  The bottle was half empty, and I thought to myself that was good, as it would mean not too much.  I should have known there would be many more bottles of vodka before the night was out.

We discussed many things, in bits of Russian and English, and I gathered that Alexander, was a retired Major from the Navy.  He was very kind and made sure I ate something after every shot of vodka, and I ate a lot.
They were all very much Russian patriots, very proud of Russia and love their country. Although they made it clear that they don’t like Putin at all.

There was some discussion regarding Ukraine, and the old lady cried and shots of vodka were poured in the memory of soldiers who fought in Afganistan.  Soon the guitar appeared and the paratrooper who had fought in Afghanistan played many Russian songs all night. I have him the packet of cigarettes from Mongolia, she received back a packet of Russian cigarettes!  I’d been hoping not to have to carry cigarettes any more!
I danced with the old lady before she became drunk fairly quickly and retired to bed, while the rest of us continued eating and drinking. I was made exceptionally welcome in their unlimited hospitality.  At the end of the evening, 6 bottles of vodka had been consumed.  It was 1am and I’d planned to go to bed at 8pm!

Tonight was a brilliant evening of Russian warmth and new friends, again despite no common language. I was fortunate to understand some Polish and surprised how much that helped in understanding Russian.

I retired to bed in the knowledge that tomorrow is certain to bring a raging headache.